Trans Amped is currently up on ramps with the transmission removed and the rear suspension half put back together. Waiting on a balanced clutch & flywheel, stronger 3/16″ steel motor brace, install manual steering and it should be back up and running.
Vibrations aren’t good so I’ve been troubleshooting them. One of them was from the motor because it was the same in neutral as in gear. So yesterday neighbor Mike and I pulled the transmission and clutch assembly. I spun the motor up with only the adapter and it was very smooth.
My understanding of the stock gas engine was that it was balanced, but actually the flywheel was used to balance it. So the engine was out of balance and the flywheel was out of balance but when you put them together they were balanced.
So I installed the flywheel on my motor and it was unbalanced, resulting in us pulling it apart and redoing it. I dropped the flywheel and clutch assembly off this morning at a machine shop and should have it back later this week. They’ll take off the cast-in weights on the back of the flywheel then remove additional material as needed to balance out.
The other vibration is due to my driveline angles. I measured with a digital 0.1 accuracy angle level and the motor was about 7 degrees lower in the rear, the driveshaft level, and the rear end 1.5 degrees lower in the rear. Both are in the same direction ( \_/ would be bad, \ _ \ is ok, / _ / is ok, /_\ would be bad). This is due to both the motor not being mounted level due to the steering rack and the rear end overloaded with battery weight. I have some stiffer springs and air bags to install to restore the rear ride height and will have to see what I can do with the motor.
I’m still nervous about overcharging the batteries so I kept checking on them tonight. All of the regulators had red lights on so I know I need to get the pack charged up and equalized before I do too much more test driving and kill it. It took about 2 hours at 12.5 amps but all but one checked out and flashed green for me. Tomorrow I’ll give it some one on one charger attention to bring it up. The other 12 batteries are at 13.25 V resting, this one is at 13.15 so it’s close but I hate to leave the other 12 regulators in bypass while this one hokey pokes its way up. Total pack voltage is 172V using 13 – 12V DieHard P1.
Today I made a motor brace that will hopefully keep the motor from rotating. It’s only 1/8″ aluminum, but that was easy to cut and bend. If it works out I’ll have it remade for me in steel from Fabricator Mike for extra strength. I also replaced the rubber bushing on the front motor mount with a coupling nut sandwiched between the metal plates. Hopefully that makes it more rigid and will also keep the motor from twisting.
After that I of course had to do some more test drives to see if the modifications worked. They were better than last time and I’m getting closer to isolating the vibration. If is pin the motor with the car in neutral it seems off balance. The flywheel and clutch could be the cause so to find out if that it is I will need to pull the transmission and spin the motor with the flywheel detached. If that is the case I don’t know how it will be fixed. I imagine a flywheel can be balanced off the motor. If the motor is balanced and the flywheel is balanced then it should all be good.
The vibrations are worst in 1st gear and lessen as I go into the higher gears. For neighborhood driving I realized it works best just to leave it in 4th (like most people say). It is smooth and has no trouble starting from a stop in fourth.
The power steering motor blew another fuse, this time 25 amps. I need to go to thicker wire before I try a bigger fuse. I’m also seeing that manual steering with the power rack isn’t too bad so a manual rack is appealing because it has a higher ratio and should be even easier. The bonus is that I won’t need a motor to turn the pump so the car will be quieter. All that will be running at stop would be the blower for the motor and it is pretty quiet.
Batteries are charging, need to get them all the way filled up before I do anymore driving. They dropped to 12.4 V after the first drives.
The speedomoter and odometer do not work but we went about 4 miles today. Tried to install the ammeter but I was reminded that the controller has capacitors and slowly discharges. It will do so through your finger if you present the opportunity.
Well tonight I mounted the circuit breaker and a kill switch \ rip cord in the interior. And it rained so no test runs. Tomorrow is a no go due to scheduling, but I’ll at least pump up the jams, I mean tires, and add some rubber insulation around the rear battery pack. Also on the list is reinstalling the modified phone cords I made last night and charging the pack up to full. It’s currently at 165 V, about 12.7 each. The battery manual says that 12.84 is 100% state of charge, so the pack should be 167V. Charging voltage should be in the mid-14s so I’ll watch the charger close the first couple of times to see when the regulators are shutting it down.
I installed the battery regulators 90% tonight. I need a couple more phone cords to make the final connections. Also rerouted some wiring from the brake vacuum so I could mount my potbox closer to the throttle cable. Finding a good location with clearance and the right approach angle for the throttle is proving a bit difficult.
Pictures:
I had to edit this one because it was completely wrong. I couldn’t find the manual for the regulators and the website had a bad link at the moment. It is fixed now so I reread the manual and see what went I hadn’t noticed before.
I found 12″ 6-pin connectors at Walmart and compared the wiring and they were in the right order. Problem was when I looked at them through the box the tangs were facing different directions. According to Rudman, “TDBR” means tang down, blue right. With the wires I purchased that is true for one but opposite for another. That makes sense from the perspective of connection a phone to a socket, but not connecting in serial for communication. I’ll cut off the plastic terminals on the wires I have and recrimp them with new 6-pin terminals. More expensive than buying a spool of cable and terminals and doing it that way to begin with, but now I know store bought cables probably won’t work.
So this is something I made soon after changing the name from EV Trans Am to Trans Amped. It was actually a Valentine’s gift to my wife to show her how awesome her hubby is.
I’ve been taking some time off the project. My primary time to work on it is in the evenings. Our garage faces west so the sun sets and comes into it, making it pretty dang hot, not to mention bright.
I’m thinking about taking a few days off around Labor Day and trying to finish it in one big push. We’ll see.
I need a couple more pieces (lugs that fit the shunt, covers for some battery regulators, regulator phone cords…) but the major stuff could be done now. Still haven’t thought of a good way to mount the battery regulators though.